Manna

A 1929 sanatorium at 1,200 metres on Mount Mainalo, restored over seven years by Stratis Batagias, who first wandered in as a ten-year-old with a torch. Grey limestone, original mosaic floors, iron doors with ornate muntins. The restoration was done with archaeologists, and it shows. What’s been added is local and considered: chestnut panelling, bespoke furniture made by craftspeople from the surrounding villages, art by Nikos Kanoglou, lighting by Eleftheria Deko, who also lit the Acropolis. Goat bells hang on the room doors as do-not-disturb signs. Room numbers are carved into the floor.

Inside, it feels more alpine lodge than Greek hotel. High ceilings, heated floors, terrazzo and pale wood, sheepskin on the chairs, a fireplace in the lobby that people actually gather around. The rooms are warm and airy, forest views from every window, minibar stocked with local wine, herb infusions and a cocktail kit. The suites have freestanding copper bathtubs. The build quality is the kind you notice with your hands.

Outside, fir trees in every direction and a lily pond with loungers and a fireplace on the hill above it. The hotel works with local guides for hiking on over 80 km of marked Menalon trails, and the Lousios River is close enough for a morning’s rafting. The mountain villages of Dimitsana and Stemnitsa are worth the drive. Byzantine monasteries carved into cliff faces. In winter there is snow and skiing on Mainalo. Open year-round, and every season gives you a different reason to come.

Our Take: A place that invites you to be still or adventurous. Preferably both. Surrounded by fir forests, mountain trails and authentic villages, Manna is the great escape you didn’t know you needed.